V Rating: V-ware
Where: Upper ground floor, 53-55 Brisbane Street, Surry Hills.
When: Lunch: Mon - Fri: 12pm - 3pm. Dinner: Mon - Sat: 6pm - 11pm.
Tel: (02) 9212 4118.

Surry Hills is the one part of Sydney that reminds me of Melbourne. There’s funky designer shops, left-leaning arts and music festivals, and slinky laneways hiding a multitude of great bars and restaurants.

It’s the last part that Sydneysiders struggle with. We’re not big on subtlety, and don’t understand why you’d locate a place to be seen somewhere that people can’t see it.

Perhaps that’s why half of my dinner group, including moi and my taxi driver got lost trying to find Lo Studio (why would it been down a deserted street opposite a vacant lot??)

Even when I was standing in front of the address (literally) I didn’t trust my eyes. It looked like the front doors of an understated New York apartment block , and there was just a staircase without a hint of a name, or restaurant, in sight.

Upstairs it’s a different story. There’s a slightly formal lounge bar to the right, and a spacious fine dining restaurant on the left. The restaurant has an oblong shape and has a lot of floor space. The decor is minimalist. The walls are painted stark white, interrupted only by large dark windows overlooking the small, dark street. The floor is carpeted, keeping noise levels in check, and there are comparatively vast stretches of space between the tables. Along one wall is a huge wooden bar, well-stocked with good wines and a range of liqueurs.

I went to Lo Studio for a farewell dinner. Because we were a large group we had a set menu, which included one vegetarian entree and one vegetarian main. Neither are vegan. I don’t know if this is indicative of the usual menu - probably best to call ahead and check.

The vegetarian entree was a caprese salad with fresh tomato, thick swathes of milky boccocini and ribbons of basil. This is one of my favourite salads - I love its simplicity, and the contrast between the rich, warm taste of the tomato, and the almost bland, soft boccocini - and Lo Studio did it well.

My main was risotto with asparagus, peas and shaved, salted ricotta. The sauce was creamy and filled the bowl, giving the risotto a light, liquid consistency.

The set menu also offered vegetarian sides like rosemary roasted pototaoes, of which I had a lot a tad more than my fair share.

Based on the set menu I wouldn’t recommend Lo Studio to a party of vegans or vegetarians, but as the solo vegetarian I had plenty of food to line my tummy.

Share This