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V Rating: VVV Our Greece Lonely Planet warned of the onslaught of tourism in Thira (or Fira), Santorini’s capital, and gave a stinging review of the restaurant scene, lamenting its poor food, exorbitant prices, and rude service. This description drove us to the quieter village of Oia, and ensured our first visit to Thira for the sunset was filled with trepidation. Fortunately, our Thira experience didn’t match the horrors recounted by Lonely Planet. Yes, tourists were there in hordes, but it was possible to escape the bulk of the tourist shops (and tourists) if you didn’t mind a walk. From our sunset vantage point on a high, public balcony I even witnessed a miracle. As the sun fell in the sky, silence descended. I looked down at the town, seeing all the squares filled to brim with people, but the only sound was the wind skipping over the sea and the reverential click of cameras. The reason for the silence is that Santorini is a largely submerged volcano. The caldera curves like a smile through the sea, forming a thin, high ridge on which the scattered island towns perch. From the height of the caldera, you stare back into its vast, sea-filled centre, knowing that you’re gazing into the heart of a still active volcano responsible for the largest eruption in recorded history. If that doesn’t inspire awe, nothing will. After watching the sunset, we went in hunt of food. Cautious thanks to Lonely Planet’s scathing reports, we decided to try a restaurant called Ampelos which overlooked a small square on the outskirts of Thira. We knew nothing about Ampelos, but its understated exterior and strong vegetarian selection caught our attention earlier in the evening. Thankfully, it didn’t contain any of the evils described in the guide book. In fact, Ampelos won me over early, when the compulsory bread basket came filled with fresh, brown bread and a delicious olive paste.
We ordered the special of artichoke heart stew with peas, potatoes, carrots, dill, green onions and tomatoes. This was the only time we saw this dish on a Greek menu, which was a shame because the artichokes made a hearty vegetarian base for the stew, and a respite from briam.
We weren’t leaving without trying the sublimely soft stuffed eggplant, filled with tomatoes, garlic, onion and fresh parsley, one of the better versions we had in Greece.
The stuffed tomato and capsicum, which came with a creamy, risotto-like, rice filling mixed with pine nuts, dill, parsley and onion, and served with roast potatoes, was another good vegetarian choice.
I can’t vouch for the rest of Thira’s food, but Ampelos had a pleasant, friendly atmosphere, a good range of well-priced meals and some decent local Santorini wine. Vegetarian in Greece: More posts on Greek veggie food Post a comment
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