I didn’t have high hopes for Jordan, seeing it as a way of getting from Syria to Egypt rather than a destination in its own right. However I soon discovered it has a lot of diverse attractions, not least of which is the fabulous array of food on offer in the capital, Amman. Amman is not a beautiful city. It lacks the atmosphere and history of Damascus or the buzz of Cairo, but its (relatively) tolerant attitude and full spectrum of restaurants make it a great place to revive after travelling in neighbouring countries. In fact, I had three of my favourite Middle Eastern food experiences during our time in Amman.
We began our food therapy at the Blue Fig, an elegant, modern restaurant cum bar in the new part of Amman. The lighting is low, patrons are uber fashionable, and the world food is expensive, but worth it. We salivated over the menu, which had a good selection of vegetarian food, but eventually opted for a fresh salad with a honey mustard dressing and two huge pizzas with thick, hand made dough and exotic toppings like guacomole and sour cream, washed down with a beer and glass of white wine (a luxury after our largely dry trip through Syria). For dessert we splurged and had a green tea and mint creme brulee, which was divine. After two months in the Middle East it was a real treat to try different flavours and good quality fresh food.
Our next memorable food experience was the polar opposite of the Blue Fig, but equally enjoyable. In the heart of downtown Amman is Hashem, a local restaurant in a small alleyway opposite the Cliff Hotel. We were waved in by the friendly staff, and seated at the last available table. There is no menu because only a few dishes are served. Conveniently, they are all vegetarian!
In a couple of minutes we had freshly cooked felafel, a mound of soft pitta bread, a bowl of fuul, and a plate of hummus. Each dish was delicious - particularly the creamy hummus and lightly spiced fuul.
Our meals came with a glass of tea, and the entire bill was about 1 dinah - or A$1.60. Given a bottle of water cost 1 - 2 dinahs, this meal was an absolute bargain as well as being a great vegetarian experience. Definitely a Super V. For our last night we wanted to visit a special restaurant, and were recommended Fakhr el-din. This extremely popular Lebannese place is located in a beautifully restored villa. Normally a booking is necessary, but we were lucky to be able to walk in and receive one of the few remaining tables. While the mains were largely free of vegetarian food, there was a very extensive list of mezzes, many of which were vegetarian. We tried four dishes, and each was delicious, but the standouts were potato kibbeh and spinach pastries.
The potato kibbeh was mashed potato seasoned with olive oil, burghul, spices and plenty of salt. It was served cold, in hand formed small sausage-like shapes. I preferred this to the lentil kibbeh we had tried in Istanbul and Damascus. The spinach pies were remarkably fresh tasting. Rather than the flaky or filo pastry we were expecting, the casing was a light dough which was baked rather than fried. Inside, juicy spinach in garlic was packed in and you seasoned the pastry with fresh lemon juice.
Even though Andy and I were looking decidedly backpacker compared with the other patrons, the waiter was extremely friendly and gave us good advice about eating the meal and choosing food and wine. This was a lovely way to round off our time in Amman, and a fitting end to what turned out to be one of the dining capitals of the Middle East.
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