I first heard of Sharjah, Dubai’s neighbour and the cultural capital of the United Arab Emirates, two months ago. I had no burning desire to go there on our world trip, but as Sharjah was the hub for the Middle East’s excellent budget airline, Air Arabia, we had no choice but to stop there for a night on the way to Nepal.

One of the great things about visiting a place you didn’t know existed is that you have no preconceptions or expectations. Yet for some so unprepared, we had remarkable good fortune and a good time.

Our first stroke of luck was to be befriended at the airport by an Iranian-Canadian woman who had recently moved to Sharjah. She and her husbad kindly offered us a lift to city centre, and when they heard we were vegetarian recommended that we eat at a vegetarian restaurant called Kamat.

Coming from the Middle East (and having done no research about Sharjah), we were surprised and delighted that there would be a vegetarian restaurant there. What we hadn’t banked on was the large Indian migrant population.

Many people come to Sharjah and Dubai from India and Nepal to earn money to support families back home. Lacking Dubai’s profile, Sharjah has much cheaper housing and so many workers live there and commute to jobs in Dubai. The large Indian population has led to a flourishing Indian restaurant industry.

The biggest surprise came when we reached Kamat and drove around the block to find a park. Not only was the area filled with Indian restaurants, the bulk of them were vegetarian. Seeing so many vegetarian signs proudly displayed next to the more typically Middle Eastern kebab stores was like entering a parallel universe.

Kamat was a revelation. The menu was extensive, covering the gamut of South and North Indian vegetarian food. We ordered stuffed tandoori mushrooms and vegetable pakoras for starters, and a palak paneer for mains.

The stuffed mushrooms came out first. I was away from the table when they arrived, and I returned to find Andy profusely thanking the bemused waiter and congratulating the restaurant on making the best food of our three month trip.

He was right: the mushrooms were divine. They were fresh and barbequed in a succulent, dust red tandoori marinade. Because they were baked the outside baste was not too oily, and crunched lightly with each bite. Inside each mushroom was stuffed with a light, creamy spinach mixture which added flavour to the dish. 

The vegetable pakoras were also good, with the vegetables still springy beneath the light, deep fried casing. The palak paneer was pleasant, with a brilliant green, thin sauce, but paled a little in contrast the other superb dishes.

At the end of the meal the attentive waiting staff brought us a beautiful tray with mixed sugar coated coriander and aniseed digestion aids. It was a lovely end to one of the best meals of our trip (including the many Indian meals we’ve since had in India!)

Sharjah may not have the glamour of Dubai, but it’s worth considering as an alternative stopover for the amazing food, friendly people and cheaper accommodation options.

Kamat details:

Address: King Faisal Road, Sharjah
Tel: 06 5599044

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