In Australia, vegetarian restaurants are so rare they’re novel.

In India, vegetarian restaurants are so normal they’re commonplace - but that doesn’t stop you from having some very novel vegetarian experiences.

We began our Rajasthan trip in the capital, Jaipur, a thriving place dubbed the ‘pink city’ for the rose and salmon hued buildings in its old quarter. While I loved Jaipur’s monuments, some of our most memorable experiences involved eating.

On our first night we ate in a restaurant called Om, which I’m sure must have the distinction of being the only revolving vegetarian restaurant in the world.

The menu was extensive and interesting.We ordered palak paneer, dum aloo (potato dumplings in a spicy tomato sauce) and seasonal vegetables cooked in dry curry spices, served on a sizzling hot plate. For accompaniments, we tried the kuchumber salad, mixed vegetable raita, rotis and pappadums.

The food was adequate, but did not quite live up to the sophisticated surroundings (or the glowing recommendation in our guide book). The dum aloo sauce was very creamy and rich, and the dishes were so hot that the spiciness eventually overpowered the flavour.

Still, the view over the city was wonderful, the surroundings were plush, and the service was very friendly. And did I mention the restaurant revolved?

The next day we went to another renowned Jaipur vegetarian restaurant called LMB. Unlike Om, LMB sits right in the middle of the busy old city amidst small market shops selling colourful cloth, tourist souvenirs and traditional Rajasthani shoes.

LMB is part of a hotel. You enter through a bakery and fast food area dominated by a large glass counter filled with brightly coloured Indian sweets. The restaurant is off to the left hand side. Unusually, it’s in the centre of the building so there are no windows (hence the fire-like glow to my photos). There is a slightly formal atmosphere to the room, thanks to the swirling 1950’s style plaster decoration that adorns the roof, and the highly professional waiting staff in white jackets.

The food at LMB was delicious; some of the best we had in the North. Still recovering from dinner, we ordered a small lunch for three of paneer tikka (cubes of paneer marinated overnight, then roasted in the tandoor oven and served with a mint chutney), a dahl fry, and a starter of aloo chatpatta (spicy, crispy potatoes squares served with garlic chutney and masala).

The paneer was firm and well-cooked and not too oily thanks to being cooked in the tandoor. The tikka marinade soaked the paneer with flavour, enhanced by a squeeze of fresh lime. The aloo chatpatta was also delicious, and extremely good value given it was the same size as our “mains”. While we didn’t try anything from the Rajasthani section of the menu, I suspect it would be authentic and tasty.

Our final vegetarian experience took place just outside of Jaipur at the “Chokni Dahni” village. Chokni Dahni is a model traditional Rajasthani village established on the grounds of a hotel complex.

For a set fee, you gain entry, a full vegetarian dinner, and access to all kinds of traditional rajasthani cultural activities that would be frustrated by OHS issues in Australia, like camel rides, dances performed on nails, and child acrobats balancing high up on huge poles. I went semi-reluctantly, and only after finding out that it was aimed at Indian tourists. Needless to say, I had a great time.

As soon as we arrived we were ushered into the eating hall by staff, who were very keen to make sure we didn’t go hungry. There was nil danger of that.

We were seated on the floor with a small cube serving as a table placed in front of each of us. There was no menu or introduction of the food. Instead we were each given a round tray, with four bamboo dishes on one side, and two clay cups. Within 30 seconds of being seated waiting staff bearing big vats of food started to emerge, and began filling our tray and bowls thali style with mysterious items of food.

The food was delicious, and very different in flavour from other Northern Indian food. We were served a vegetable curry, flour dumplings in sauce, dahl, rice, pappadums, rotis, pickles, curd, a lentil mash with ghee, and super sweet desserts. Trying to finish the meal was a Sisyphean task - as soon as you emptied a bowl a waiter came along and refilled it.

Sure, it looks manageable now… but this is just the beginning.  

When we were finished the staff invited us to the back kitchen where we saw rotis being cooked over hot coals, and pappadums being quickly fried in hot oil.

The following morning we had to leave the Pink City for Pushkar. I’m sure I left Jaipur five kilograms heavier than when I arrived - but it was worth it to experience some truly unique vegetarian restaurants!

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