Archive for the ‘Sydney City’ Category
V Rating: Super V Iku is a successful chain of healthy vegetarian takeaway restaurants. It’s like the Sydney vegetarian equivalent of McDonald’s. Only better.
I recently hopped in the buzzing queue in the food court in the MLC Centre at Martin Place. Laid out in front of me in all of its macrobiotic, organic, gluten-free options glory, were salads, rice balls, wraps, soup, hot casseroles, pasta dishes, and dessert. I felt healthy and virtuous just looking at the food. Despite the myriad temptations, I couldn’t go past the takeaway mixed salad for $8.50. There were ginger noodles, steamed vegetables, white beans with mixed seeds, beetroot and cabbage in a vinegar dressing, and sesame brown rice, topped off with the house specialty creamy tahini dressing. The salad looked and tasted spectacular, and although it was a filling meal it didn’t leave me with a sleepy carbohydrate low come 3pm. The Iku menu changes weekly, though you’re always guaranteed of finding favourites like black rice pudding. Most stores open from lunch until dinner, but the central city outlets servicing the white collar crowd shut by 4pm. The size of the resturants (and opportuniy for eating in) varies. The Darlinghurst store is very big, Glebe has a peaceful courtyard, while the MLC Centre is just a counter operation within a busy food court. Iku also has a catering business, and distributes a range of food (including the aforementioned creamy tahini dressing) throughout health food shops. Iku doesn’t flaunt its vegetarian credentials, selling itself on the health benefits of its food, rather than its meatless menu. It’s a godsend for vegos and vegans who want a quick, tasty and stress-free lunch, and proves once and for all that vegetarian food can be sexy.
V Rating:VVV When I first moved to Sydney there were two Chinese restaurants that our friends consistently recommended: BBQ King and Golden Century. Part of their cult status came from their late night hours (the mercy of not having to eat McDonald’s after a night out!), but the food was also rated highly. BBQ King became a regular haunt of mine, but until last weekend I’d never been to Golden Century. Even though we were eating on a Sunday night, I’d taken the precaution of booking a table for our group of six. This meant we could glide elegantly up the escalators to the first floor restaurant and away from ground floor room with tanks of seafood hovering in the water, moments before death. The large upstairs room was packed. Big round tables of people were eating noisily. Battalions of staff patrolled the floor. Catching their eye was a challenge, but our table saw it as part of the experience and didn’t mind. Despite being a seafood restaurant, Golden Century still has 12 vegetarian mains (excluding dishes that come with oyster sauce or meat). We started with a vegetarian san choi bow, which wasn’t on the menu but the restaurant was happy to prepare it. The waiter who served this dish was impressive - he doled out six helpings of the filling in three seconds flat, and perfectly estimated the amount for each person.
For mains, we tried the salt and pepper tofu, which had more than a touch of chili.
I was fascinated by the king mushrooms with braised vegetables. These huge mushrooms were like flanks of meat served over the vegetables, and had a soft yet chewy texture. They didn’t have a strong flavour and absorbed the salty sauce well.
The heavenly braised 4 vegetables was the last dish to arrive, but worth the wait.
At the end of the meal we were served two complementary plates of sweet biscuits, nicely rounding off our eating experience. So did Golden Century live up to its hype? It’s a different experience to BBQ King - the surrounds are more plush for starters. I thought it had an interesting selection of vegetarian dishes that went beyond ‘mixed vegetables in x sauce’, ad infinitum, but it is a seafood and BBQ restaurant at heart (for example, our waiter questioned whether we meant to order two vegetable mains, assuming he’d misheard). You will find plenty of cheaper Chinese restaurants in this area, and probably won’t notice a great difference if you stick to vegetarian food rather than the signature seafood and BBQ dishes. That said, Golden Century was a fun experience and I would go back again.
V-Rating: super V The experience of eating out is never just about the food- a range of factors influence the pleasure of the whole experience and subsequently, the enjoyment of the food itself. So it was following the excitement-fuelled pre-wedding BBQ and the wedding banquet feasted upon by a room filled with guests riding a wave of celebratory joy, that the (slightly less populated) wedding party floated for a last hurrah and Sunday brunch yum cha at Bodhi’s Restaurant and Bar. We were a little weary but basking in the glow and warmth of the post-wedding delirium. For Bodhi’s this meant a large party of agreeable guests, whose first consideration with every mouthful was not to debate whether this restaurant was indeed the Best Vegetarian Yum Cha in Sydney (well, at least in the 15 kilometre radius of the CBD), but simply to enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. Bodhi’s is nestled between a pool and a cathedral in Cook & Phillip Park. In the middle of summer, Bodhi’s was outside dining only*. A large courtyard area has tables laid out under big umbrellas that proved to be excellent shelter (for nearly all of us) from both the sun and the brief shower that passed through while we were dining. Dining outside at Bodhi’s offers a view further down the hill and out to the gardens when (if?) you manage to lift your head to pause between mouthfuls. The table and seating is basic: square-seated wooden stools that fit into the long, low wooden-slatted tables that dominate the eating area (seating twelve). There are some potted miniature bushes between some of the side tables (for smaller two-to-four person parties) and a few large trees offering shade that manage to bring some of the nature of the nearby gardens up to the urban, concrete space we’re occupying. For a group as large as this, yum cha was the perfect solution for the final gathering. Being a post-wedding brunch guests were coming and going over the course of the two or so hours we spent at Bodhi’s, as long return journeys to far-away homes beckoned. While the numbers fluctuated, the food was nothing if not consistent. Although there was a little wait for the onslaught to begin, once the small plates of delicacies began to arrive they continued at a consistent pace for over an hour. So the yum cha experience: basically one of the small army of waiters would be dispatched to approach groups seated along the long tables with plates of savoury fragrant sticky rice in wanton skin (among a million other dishes) and we would say ‘ooh yes please’ and accept a plate to share, followed in quick succession by other dishes. The time it took for each plate to be cleared was the most effective measure of time passing, as the morning became afternoon there was a noticeable shift in pace, and even refusals to the offer of new dishes- as delicious as they looked. The food, on the whole, was excellent. Yum cha is a wonderful way to experience many different dishes and to ensure everyone will find something they really enjoy. A quick survey of fellow diners saw a range of dishes nominated as the most memorable: from vegetable curry puffs to cream corn crispy wanton to steamed BBQ buns to a brown rice & seaweed stuffed fried tofu pocket. In the small white ceramic bowls, eating with disposable wooden chopsticks, we sampled many delights. There were some dishes that were shared rather than single portions on a plate, including stir fried noodles with seasonal vegetables- a delicate, sticky rice noodle and vegetable mix, more noodle than vegetable with a sweet, delicate soy-based sauce. Many dishes were variations on a theme- so, for instance, there were steamed lotus seed buns and steamed mung bean buns and steamed peanut buns. There were fried wantons with all sorts of fillings. There was gow (a tightly wrapped, rice paper/noodle parcel presented in a bamboo steaming dish) of many varieties including an enoki & field mushroom gow that offered a burst of the pungent smell and flavour of rich mushroom. The fresh rice noodle folds with mixed vegetables were a hit- while the rice was the usual slippery test for the chop-stick-challenged it was a rewarding mouthful of vegetables and what seemed to be egg wrapped into the long rectangular parcels, with a burst of fresh coriander to make it a much cleaner taste sensation. One of our diners was limited to foods that met her current health-related diet restrictions (not particularly yum cha friendly) but bent the rules just a little to sample the satay salad of fresh spouts, thai mint and basil in a (fried) tofu pocket, with the satay dribbled across the top. These were a fresh and crispy mouthful- and worth bending the rules for! The blanched fresh Chinese green kale was also a hit- the simplicity of steamed greens is always cleansing when eating Chines foods that include lots of glutinous rice dishes accompanied by rich sauces (although, of course, a special sauce did accompany the kale for those who wanted to drizzle it across their serving). A big hit was the early arrival of bowls of fresh fruits- mainly melon fruit (watermelon, honey dew and cantaloupe) with some green grapes- that also allowed for some fresh, clean flavours. After a brief Sydney downpour the day become decidedly more humid and fresh fruit was more than welcome and continued to be available throughout the meal. While the entrée and main course dishes are barely distinguishable when dining yum cha-style, the gear shift when desserts begin to arrive is noticeable. This is partly due to dessert-lovers beginning to groan and wish aloud that they had saved more room for dessert and also because Chinese-style desserts are so eye-catching, they look so interesting- the agar jellies, the chilled fruit (mango, lychee) puddings, the crispy coconut balls. A good friend recommended some special white coconut balls covered in desiccated coconut filled with crushed peanuts, palm sugar, salt and a few other specialities. She had been addicted to something very similar during her time in Cambodia and despite being a long way from Phnom Penh was very pleased with the Bodhi’s version. The groom himself sampled the coconut milk agar jelly- looking stunning, with the clear agar agar jelly on the bottom and a thick white jelly on top- his pleasure was evident in the way it quickly disappeared from the plate. Like all good things, however, the yum cha and the wedding celebrations had to come to an end. Once our dearest friends and the wedding couple had left, our appetites also disappeared. Bodhi’s served quite a feast that was clearly enjoyed by all present. There were a few hiccups along the way- there was difficulty in accessing water to drink and eventually it came out in plastic water bottles where large jugs of iced tap water would have sufficed. In fact drinks, on the whole, were a little slow to arrive. It seemed the well-oiled yum cha machine can accommodate special requests but not always expediently. However, such issues are not major criticisms. The food itself was fresh and delicious and enjoyed greatly by all- not only because we were all so happy to be there. A veritable vegetarian feast. *There were no tables to be seen inside, and the space inside seemed much smaller than the front courtyard, however I assume that during winter the focus no doubt shifts to indoor dining.
V Rating: V-ware When I was growing up*, eating at a pub meant a counter meal of fish and chips, roast lamb, or schnitzel. Occasionally, the menu would stretch to exotic dishes like apricot chicken or chicken maryland, but that was not the norm. These days a pub meal doesn’t have to be accompanied by beer stained coasters and endless TAB races on television. Some of Sydney’s top restaurants are in pubs, like Bistro Moncur at the Woollahra Hotel and est. at the Establishment. So when I had to organise a pre-Christmas fancy-schmancy business lunch I thought I’d give the Dome restaurant at the Arthouse Hotel a try. Although Dome is tastefully decorated with polished wooden floorboards and long chocolate walls, it sitting on top of a pub (albeit a schmick one) helps it maintain a casual air. I liked this about the restaurant. It kept the lunch relaxed without compromising the quality of the experience. It also helped that the staff were particularly friendly and helpful. Dome does not cater all that well for vegetarians, but then, that’s par for the course with most expensive, Modern Australian restaurants. There was a single vegetarian entree, an artichoke with gruyere tartlet served with baby greens, and a single vegetarian main, handmade linguini with fresh peas, broadbeans, tomato & mushroom. Both dishes were pleasant. The main pasta was down-to-earth, hearty meal. The peas gave it a fresh strong taste, and the serving was generous. My only complaint, as per usual, was that there no choice for vegetarians, so I wouldn’t recommend it if there were multiple vegetarians in your party. *I did grow up in country South Australia in the eighties.
V Rating: VV Today my lovely boss A. suggested we go out for lunch. I directed her to Asuka, then coyly confessed that I’d left my purse at home. Oops! Asuka is tucked away in a small mall behind the Shelbourne (but don’t hold that against it). The roof slopes, the pipes are exposed, and patrons cram in. The staff are Japanese and the menu is displayed in Japanese and English on the walls. So, y’know, it’s authentic in a Tokyo street kind of way. Like most Japanese restaurants, many of Asuka’s dishes are based on meat and seafood. However, there are some vegetarian bento boxes (agedashi tofu box and potato croquette bento box), and interesting noodle dishes. I was hopeful that the soy ramen noodles in a soy based sauce would be vegetarian. Apparently they weren’t, although I’m still not sure if the waiter and I just misunderstood each other. He did confirm that the baby buk choy, vegetarian tempura and wild grass udon were all safe for vegetarians. Faced with a choice like that, who wouldn’t have the wild grass for lunch. I’m not sure what the ‘grass’ was. It was like a combination between snake beans and morning glory. But it tasted good! I enjoyed the noodles. The broth was light and not too oily and there were lots of tasty ingredients like sliced garlic, seaweed, shallots, ginger and other shoots. To wash it down I had a calpis (insert giggle) water. A. and I agreed it was like lemonade creaming soda. Officially it’s a mix of water, non fat dry milk, and lactic acid. That tastes like vanilla yoghurt. And has health properties. All good. Asuka is a good, cheap choice for lunch in the city - but go early because it fills up real quick.
V Rating: VV Last Sunday I went to the Sydney Foodbloggers event where we shared a High Tea spread and lots of foodblogging dirt. The food was nice and prettily arranged, but did not quite live up to my expectations. The chocolate fountain was a visual highlight and I enjoyed my mango pudding served in a small glass with raspberry garnish. The options were vegetarian friendly as most dishes were cakes and puddings. However, vegans would be disappointed, with little more than fresh fruit to get them by. I was disappointed that there wasn’t more savoury food as I’m not much of a sweet tooth (not that this stopped me from having two full plates of food). To be fair, my expectations were high. My first ever high tea was at Harrods in London. You sit in the stately Georgian room and share a three-tiered tray of food (tier one is cucumber sandwiches, tier two is scones, and tier three is sweet cakes.) Waiting staff circulate and refill your trays as many times as you like. Legend has it that an English schoolboy once ate 64 cakes. Sure that was a fun bus trip home. Even as a hungry and poverty-stricken backpacker I couldn’t come close to this record. My second go at High Tea was at the Hyatt Hotel in Canberra, the gorgeous 1930s building designed by John Smith Murdoch (the architect behind Old Parliament House). This a cornucopia of afternoon tea dishes, with plenty of savoury foods and love handle inducing sweet treats. I remember the atmosphere as being suitably parlour-like, although the hordes of people gave it a slightly unruly air. The best part about the Swissotel High Tea was getting to meet all the other bloggers. The day was organised by the lovely Helen from Grab Your Fork, the doyen of Sydney foodblogging. I was really looking forward to meeting her and finding out how she takes such beautiful photographs (sadly, the answer appeared to be talent, although a tripod and good light helps). I also got to meet the uber-lovely Emily from Pickos, Suze from CChocolatesuze, Nic and Tiff from Sweet Little Treat and Canadian Kevin from Kevin’s Travelling Food Journal. He impressed us all by running from afternoon tea to a cake competition that he’d entered. Hope you fared well! Cucina Rebecca and Sydney Cafes, two of the oldest food blogs / websites in Sydney, were also represented, but with a big group of people I didn’t have the chance to Putting faces to blogs was interesting. Most of the bloggers were young women who had other jobs. Some bloggers wrote exclusively about food, while others wrote about eating among other parts of their lives, or had second interests like the creative Nic and Tiff (check out their t-shirt stall at Paddington Markets on Saturdays) or traveller Kevin. It was great to be able to swap tips on cameras, photo-taking etiquette, blog programs (most people went with blogger, though a couple of us use Word Press and Moving Type) and programming tips. After asking some really impressive questions about restaurant photography (i.e. do you actually use a camera, or just a mobile phone?) I distinguished myself by running out of camera batteries and not being able to take a photo. So if you want to check out what the Sydney foodbloggers look like… you’ll have to keep guessing. But if you want to see what you missed at High Tea, check out these gorgeous pics from Helen and Suze.
V-Rating: VVV Last year I was invited to join Book Grub, a Sydney-based book club devoted to books about different countries in Asia. The neat part is that every month we eat at a restaurant that corresponds to the book’s country of origin. This time around we were reading Peter Carey’s Wrong About Japan so naturally we had to find ourselves a suitable Japanese restaurant. Someone in our group suggested ‘that good, inexpensive Japanese place near Circular Quay’. A further email narrowed it down to ‘the one near The Basement?’ But even though a few of us had eaten there, no one could name it.
Once we turned up we realised why the name eluded us: it’s only written in Japanese characters over the door. This is typical of Naniwa-Tei, which has an understated, authentic feel. Glowing red lanterns hang orb-like over the front door and are the only give away as to its location. A narrow wooden staircase leads to the first floor restaurant, and home-cooked smells greet you from the kitchen. I’m always nervous about eating Japanese food in a group situation. Often there are only a few vegetarian options, and they come in small portions. This makes me a tad begrudging towards other diners.
Fortunately, Naniwa-Tei had a good selection of veggie food which the Book Grubbers were happy to sample. Our hands down favourite was the deep fried eggplant in sweet miso sauce. It was served as half a large eggplant still in its skin. The flesh was tender and beautifully cooked in the sauce. We also tried the edamame beans, the miso soup, seaweed salad and agedashi tofu. This came standard with fish flakes on top, but the restaurant was happy to serve these on the side. We rounded off the meal with green tea icecream, which has a lovely creamy, bitter taste. About four hours after arriving we finally left (to the relief of the polite owners who were going through subtle closin’ up the shop routines). The consensus was that Naniwa-Tei scored a 7-8/10. Wrong About Japan fared less well, just scraping in for a 6. |
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